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Location: Kansas City
Born: 26 October 1977
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Real Name: Jacob
Joined: 1-May 11
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Last Seen: May 21 2018, 01:34 PM
Local Time: Jul 22 2018, 08:52 AM
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My Content
Jul 26 2016, 12:46 PM
I decided to do this write up because many said that you could not put speakers in doors with power windows. Well, you most definitely can and can make it look good!!

First, here is what I put in...
1. Radio: Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS
2: Component speakers: JL Audio C2-650 (2 sets)
3. Amps: JL Audio 300/4v2 (for the component speakers) and HD750/1 (for the subs)
4. Subs: two JL Audio 10" subs in JL enclosures (don't remember exact model numbers

Previous owner had already hacked the dash so I just went with another head unit that'd fit the spot. When they did that they also broke the trim a little bit which you can see on the right. So at some point I need to replace my dash bezel

Here are the progress pics focusing mostly on the front doors.

Test fit with door shut

Everything in but nothing wrapped so just in the raw wood
Amps sit under second row seat

I didn't see the need to take pics of both doors or both sides in rear cuz they look the same but they are there

Here's the whole setup wrapped and looking pretty decent considering this is only my second time ever doing any kind of interior work
Still need to stick that carpet under the trim piece

Driver rear

Passenger rear

Front doors

May 12 2016, 10:44 AM
So a few days ago the female end of the driver's seat belt started malfunctioning and unbuckling itself at will. So here's a write up on replacing the female end of the buckle. It's not hard by any stretch but after several minutes on the Google I didn't see any write ups on this so I figured I'd create one complete with iPotato pics. I know, I know....I am spoiling you now.

Part Number: 19121540 (these numbers are specific to the side of the vehicle and color. part number for passenger side is 19121542)

Tools needed: 15mm socket, flat head screw driver

Level of Difficulty: SUPER EASY

1. remove cover. It's just clipped it so take your screw driver and gently pry up on it

2. unbolt seat belt. This takes the 15mm socket and is the bolt that "inside" the plastic hole of the buckle assembly

3. unhook wire from seat frame and disconnect from plug in. You'll need your screw driver for this as well to push down on the connection and then pull out. In the pic it's that plug that is blurry (NOT the one with the red and green wire going into it!!). Squint real good and it'll be clear. It's kind of in the background and runs horizontal. That connection swivels so you should be able to get your screw driver in there to disconnect it and the faulty belt buckle should pull out at that time.

4. reverse the previous steps when installed the new part.
Nov 25 2015, 09:55 AM
A brief summary of this burb is I'll DD this burb for a while but then eventually it'll graduate to father/sons project and family back up ride. I hope to use it to help teach the little guys how to wrench over the years.

I haven't decided exactly what all the plans are as of yet but I will know for sure once I'm able to get my hands on it and get a feel for it. What I do know for sure is an LS swap is in it's future. I also want to swap the tripod mirrors to a set of dumbos but I'm torn cuz that'd mean doing body work on that original paint. It's only original once. So we'll see.

Here are some pics that I grabbed off the eBay auction I got it from. It's got 99k original miles on it...

Here's how I originally got it....

Mar 14 2015, 07:17 PM
This is for the late model gmt400 trucks. May also work for the 88-94 but not 100% sure if they are configured the same but could be

This is to fix the issue of the HVAC controls only working on select fan speeds (if at all). So let's get to the steps and the pics.

1. Clean out glovebox

2. Remove glove box

3. Locate the resistor on top near the back.

4. Use a flat blade screwdriver to GENTLY get the connection disconnected from the old resistor

5. There are two 7mm screws holding the resistor down. Unscrew those. It also helps to swing that relay out of the way that's on the left

6. Work out the old resistor then reverse the process. It's not hard but does take some patience

Old vs new
Jan 24 2015, 09:49 PM
What: BedRug bed liner
On: 1998 Chevy K1500 extended cab short bed

Ease of install: 1/10 (1=the easiest)
Quality of Material: 9/10
Fit and finish: 9/10
Time needed for install: 1 hour or less

I was asked to give a quick write up of this so here it is.

The install was super easy with no tools needed. The liner comes in two pieces. One piece for the sides and front wall and another piece for the floor and tailgate. These two pieces zip together. Before you put anything in the bed you'll need to clean it real good. The liner stays in place via Velcro strips provided in the kit. That Velcro then adheres to the bed so it needs a nice clean surface.

The fit and finish is pretty good. There are some spots along the wheel wells that's not as snug as I'd like but I'm thinking that as the sun hits it it'll form around the wheel wells better. The quality of the material also seems to be pretty good and definitely looks nice right now.

This is my first BedRug so I'll be interested to see how it does with holding up to snow, ice and rain as well as when I use the bed as a truck bed is to be used. I am generally very easy on my trucks but there are times when I use them to haul mulch or lumber or something.

Here are some pics to show how easy the process is. It took me roughly an hour but I was taking my time and also dealing with my 8 year old at the same time lol

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