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 NPT Suburban RUST ATTACK
NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:40 PM
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Remove the third seat.

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Attack the interior, starting with the spare.

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Spare Tire wing bolt very hard to remove.

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This is why. Rusty threads on the inside.

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Good time to find out the spare tire is f'd. Bubbles and busted belts anybody?

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I was surprised to see this wheel pit looking in this good of a condition.http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/High205.gif

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:41 PM
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Busted barn door striker.

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Remove skid/trim shields on 3rd seat mount.

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Remove rear carpet hold down trim. Note tirm on pass side is under pillar trim on r/r rear a/c models but it will slide out.

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Remove rear A/C pillar cover.

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Remove front carpet trim behind 2nd row seats.

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Last screw on p/s was corroded and trim shiled popped right off.

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Parts bucket.

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Found rest of broken door stirker.

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I will be getting rid of this rear A/C unit.

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Carpet over heavy padded matting board, I was very impressed, and that matting board is some heavy stuff.

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Found a key, someday I will find what it unlocks and either get killed or be rich, lol.http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/baby.gif

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Be very careful pulling up the matting if you plan on re-using it, some spots it sticks and rips.

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There is that squeak that has been driving me insane, and I am not happy to see that loose body mount bolt.

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Carpet out, floor looks great shape, about 90+%.

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Here's about 6 percent of the bad.

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:43 PM
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That back corner, I'll just cut out the bad and plate over it. All that plumbing is coming out anyway foir the AC.

Removed rear AC housing.

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All this shit will be removed.

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Here are the bolt heads for the over the axle body mounts. Just sitting there doing nothing.

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Some kind of cap on the 3rd seat sealt belt lower floor bolt threads? I went to spray it and that thing was on there. Also note that this area of the wheel well, and the floor and where the two meet are very intact. Look in the background and see the channel that crosses the floor where the body mounts are is rusted up pretty good. I may have some shit at work I can slide right over that and reinforce it, then plate the inside where the bolt heads are and that should take care of that.

Need to remove all hardware along bedsides so panels can be removed and also those panels are installed over the wheel well insulation and carpet.

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3rd sealt belt ratchet has a cover that pops off, two tabs front and back. Both sides the rear tab fukin broke on me getting it off. http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/flipthebird.gif All the body bolts on all three points of the seat belts are a 13/16" bolt head.

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:44 PM
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Need to remove speakers and 2nd seat back lock brackets. Also there are at least 5 oor 6 hidden screws in the panels scattered about an inch or two off the floor from front to back that are hiddeen in the carpet that have to come out as well. There are no screws above or on the wheel well itself. The bolt heads holding the seat back brackets are 1/2" socket.

Look at the back of the speaker, that tells ya wait is waitng to be found inside. It was covered with road debris and corroded. http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/flipthebird.gif

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Need to remove the lower door jamb trim at the rear door. Notice at the bottom of the door jamb under the seat there the hole in the metal. Water has been shooting into the truck here off the rear tire, surprised my daughter hasn't said anything about that ! LMAO!

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:47 PM
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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:48 PM
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The worst lookin is where the wheel well halfs meet that side wall, the seam is totally destroyed. The driver side isn't bad, the pass side is shit. And where the wheel well meets the rear door pillars on each side is pretty wasted. I was able to stick the camera in the speaker holes and get some soths inside the inner and outer skins. I think my plan is going to be to cut out what rust I can get to and patch the wheel wells from outside/underneath. Then when I cut some of the rust off the outside wheel arches, I am going to try and stick some angled sheet metal on top of the wheel well and against the inner side wall on both side of the inner wall ti tie it all together, the major thing is to get those wheel wells to the point that shit aint spraying inside of the truck and causing more rust. That seems to be the starting point of most of the damage. Also the running boards will be next off the truck. They are clogged full of silt and dirt behind each end in the front and rear wheel well corners very bad. Here's some shots from inside the speaker holes of the inner fender and inner door jambs.

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:50 PM
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So I need to get the running boards off the truck to get those lower wheel well panels fixed. I went to do that and the a-hole who installed them used the ever famous, button head phukin bolts. So naturally, half of them are spinning freely and I cant get a pair of vise grips on the heads. Now I got to spend an afternoon laying on the ground with a damn grinder. I'll have to grind on the board side so I don't damage the rocker lips and create new rust breeding spots. http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/flipthebird.gif

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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:56 PM
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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 04:57 PM
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Full Name: Paw-Paw
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NorthportTroller
 Posted: Aug 2 2011, 05:02 PM
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I busted my fukin ass doing this tonight, and I am very sore and have painted, and chapped, cracked , sore fingers, BUT I AINT GOING DOWN WITHOUT A FIGHT!!!! http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/flipthebird.gif

And F-U Eagles!!!!! http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/NorthportTroller/Smileys/flipthebird.gif

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